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Roaster Highlight: Big Step Coffee w/ Founder Kyle Hayslip

Kyle Hayslip's path to coffee wasn't traditional — Marines, corporate career, a deep dive into the industry while living in Portland, then back to San Diego to launch Big Step Coffee. Now going into his third year, Kyle roasts out of the California Roasting Collective in San Marcos, sourcing primarily washed coffees and chasing what he calls the "perfect cup." We sat down with him to talk about the name, the collective, subscriptions, and water.

You've built your brand around a phrase your son used to say on walks. Did "Big Step" click right away, or did you go back and forth before deciding it was the right name for your roasting brand?

I'd love to say that I went through this long, detailed process in coming up with this name but honestly at the time it was meant to be a temporary placeholder when I was doing early brand work. It was a constant phrase our son was saying at that time (he no longer says it btw) and so it seemed natural to just call my coffee project that. It had a fun ring to it and as time went on I found joy in the name and thought it was unique in a way.

Big Step roasts at the California Roasting Collective in San Marcos alongside other well regarded local roasters. What has the experience been like roasting at a shared collective, and has that led to any meaningful relationships or collaborations?

Working out of the collective has been fantastic. Without it, Big Step likely wouldn't have happened. Our move back to San Diego wasn't guaranteed and I was actually planning to operate out of the Buckman Coffee Factory in Portland. There was a lot of uncertainty. Once I learned about the collective I knew I had a path forward to execute on my original vision of Big Step Coffee. Obviously getting to meet other people roasting out of there is a big benefit. I also get a ton of great experience working on different roasting equipment, from the San Franciscans to the Lorings. I have what I need to develop the roast profile I am looking for at the right scale.

What makes a sourcing partner important to you beyond just pricing and green coffee selection?

Establishing a network of outstanding sourcing partners is incredibly important. They can support you in not only finding the right coffee but they can help with long range planning to manage volatility in the market. When selecting a partner, I take a holistic view and I prioritize importers that have a strong and deep focus on particular regions or countries; especially those that have long-standing producer relationships and goals of improving the livelihoods and profitability with those they work with.

How critical is a subscription model for smaller roasters entering a local market? To what extent do your sourcing decisions depend on the size and stability of your current subscription base?

To answer the second question first, my sourcing definitely revolves around my projected subscriptions. When I first launched I was rotating coffees each month but that proved to be difficult to sustain. Each coffee launch takes time, from labeling to profile development, at a minimum you need a month or so from receiving the green coffee to feeling confident it's ready to go. Last year I changed my model to rotate less frequently, so now I will rotate every 2-3 months. I enjoy this more because it allows me to really hone in on a particular coffee. As a roaster you develop a relationship with each coffee, seeing how it behaves under certain conditions, becoming an expert on it. I can't achieve that level of familiarity when I only have a few weeks to roast a coffee and move on to the next release. The critical goal is establishing consistent (and growing) demand. The truth is, building a large sub base out the gate in coffee is very difficult. In my opinion, it's all about the relationships with your customers. In the coming months you'll see me do some pop-ups at various locations that can showcase my latest coffee. Building connections within the community is my main focus as I look for continued growth.

San Diego tap water is pretty hard. How much does that factor into your roasting decisions, considering most locals probably brew at home? And do you think having "ideal" coffee water is essential to getting the best out of a given bean?

I primarily make my roast profile decisions using Third Wave Water in distilled water or the RO water at the cupping lab in the roasting collective. Since I ship coffee all over the US it's easier for me to use something like Third Wave as a baseline. Water plays an important role for sure, and if you're serious about getting the most out of your coffee you should probably find a right solution or recipe that elevates your coffee.

What do you enjoy most about the San Diego coffee scene?

The San Diego coffee scene has vastly improved over recent years and there's quite a few roasters/cafes that are doing some fantastic work. I am a sucker for "hole-in-the-wall" places, offering solid coffee without the flashiness. A couple go-to spots for me are Origin Coffee Roasters (near Palomar Airport), Zumbar Coffee in Sorrento Valley, and Heartwork Coffee in Hillcrest.

Can you highlight your current favorite roast and let us know what makes it so special?

My current favorite is the washed Pink Bourbon from Eulises Guzman. I've been roasting it since January on the newly installed Loring at the CRC. It's got a great balance of flavor and subtle sweetness. I'll be sad when I run out of it.
Thanks to Kyle for joining us on the subreddit. Find the full Big Step Coffee lineup and learn more at bigstepcoffee.com or follow on Instagram @bigstepcoffee.

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